Another draft document. Have a look and leave comments so I can make it better. HERE is the link to the pdf
Started building the new range. Started by planting the back 6×6 treated posts.
A little while later, added 2 more on both sides.
Then we started stacking the ties.
A little over half way done.
Got some more done today:
Cut the excess off the top:
We used 10 inch screws to secure the ties to the posts:
I will be using the excess cut from the top to make braces for the back:
Got the angles on the 6×6’s
Planted the support 4×4’s four feet deep and concreted in:
Back Finished up:
I added 2 leftover ties to the corners:
Dropped in some dirt:
Got it pushed back:
Think we are ready to shoot! We will continually make improvements but I think the major work is done.
The jig is a router jig that makes machining your 80% lower easier, faster, and safer by utilizing a router instead of a drill press. The jig allows you to complete an 80% lower quickly, easily and pretty fool proof. This jig is easy enough for anyone to use. You also save money on tools. You do not need to own a drill press, mill, or any measuring tools to use the Jig. You might be able to borrow the tools from a friend or relative. The jig can be reused for dozens of lowers.
The lower receiver is legally the firearm, and as such it is the controlled part. Generally, the law requires licensed manufacturers and importers to mark the designated receiver with a serial number, the manufacturer or importer, the model and caliber.
“Unfinished receivers”, also called “80 percent receivers” or “blanks”, are partially completed receivers with no serial numbers. Purchasers must perform their own finishing work in order to make the receiver usable. The finishing of receivers for sale or distribution by unlicensed persons is against US law. Because an unfinished 80% receiver is not a firearm, purchasers do not need to pass a background check and it can be shipped directly to them.
Putting together your lower receiver is pretty easy if you follow these steps:
1. MAGAZINE CATCH ASSEMBLY
• Install magazine catch into recess on left of receiver.
• Install spring onto threaded portion of magazine catch from the right side of receiver.
• Screw button onto threaded portion of magazine catch 3 or 4 turns.
• Use a punch (larger than the hole in magazine button) or wooden dowel to push in the magazine button so you can turn the magazine catch clockwise until the end of the catch is flush with the magazine button head. You can hold the receiver and press the punch against the table to do this, but put something between the punch and the magazine catch button to prevent marking it. Do this step first, as it will prevent the bolt catch from getting in the way as you turn the magazine catch into place.
2. TRIGGER GUARD ASSEMBLY
• Attach front of trigger guard assembly to the receiver using the detent.
• Lay receiver on you bench block or a block of wood, and drive roll pin into receiver and rear of trigger guard using drive pin punch.
3. BOLT CATCH ASSEMBLY
• When installing the bolt catch, first drive the roll pin about halfway into the rear hump from the rear of the receiver using roll pin holder. It can be very difficult to get this pin started. If you don’t have a roll pin holder, then try holding it in place with a pair of needle nose pliers while you drive using a 5/32″ punch.
• Install spring in hole on left side of receiver.
• Install bolt catch plunger on top of spring with round portion on top and small end into receiver. Make sure it moves freely in its hole.
• Install bolt catch in receiver.
• Use a 3/32″ punch to hold the assembly by placing it through the front hump.
• The pin can be driven the rest of the way from the rear as the punch will be pushed out and while holding the bolt catch in correct alignment.
4. PIVOT PIN ASSEMBLY
• Insert spring and detent into receiver.
• Compress detent in recess using 3/32″ punch and rotate tool.
• Push out tool with pivot pin and rotate until detent is in groove of pivot pin.
5. TRIGGER ASSEMBLY
• Shoulder trigger spring onto trigger with ends of spring forward and under.
• Install disconnector spring with the wider portion of spring down towards trigger and push until it locks in there.
• Position disconnector on top of trigger, where trigger pin will hold both in place.
• Insert trigger assembly into receiver.
• Insert trigger retaining pin through receiver, trigger, and disconnector. The trigger pin has 2 grooves in it; one in the middle of the pin and one off to one side. It does not matter which way it is inserted, though common practice is to insert from left to right, with the groove to the left.
• Insert hammer pin from opposite side to help align things as you push the trigger pin in and the hammer pin out. You will have to push down on trigger assembly to align the holes and get the pin in all the way.
6. HAMMER ASSEMBLY
• Install spring onto hammer, ends of spring to rear and shoulder on back of hammer.
• Install hammer in receiver with feet pointing rearward away from hammer
• Use 5/32″ punch to retain hammer in place as you insert hammer retaining pin.
• Like the trigger pin, you may have to push down and align the holes perfectly in order to push the pin in all the way.
• Ends of the hammer spring will rest on top of the trigger pin, with one end in the groove on the trigger pin.
7. PISTOL GRIP ASSEMBLY
• Install detent, pointed end towards the selector, and the spring into the receiver from the bottom.
• Carefully compress the spring with the grip and make sure spring fits into hole in grip.
• Check the function of the selector with the grip held in place; if too tight (unable to rotate) you may need to either cut the spring, or clean out the hole in the grip.
• Once feel is acceptable, secure the grip in place with the screw and lock washer.
• Insert retainer spring and retainer into recess in lower.
• Install buffer tube, backplate, and locking ring onto receiver and depress retainer when necessary to get it to rest under the extension tube. Turn tube until it is about 1/4 turn past the correct location.
• Install takedown pin with groove to the rear and install detent and spring from the rear of the receiver.
• Backplate will now hold spring in place when you turn the extension tube back 1/4 turn.
• Tighten locking ring using telestock wrench for a snug fit.
• With the hammer down, insert buffer spring and buffer into buffer tube until retainer snaps up to lock it in place.
• Function check takedown pin, stock, and buffer retainer.
If you want an accurate rifle, don’t leave a lot of front/back bolt play (keep it .003″ but no more than .005″). Factory rifles run .012″ to .015″ play, which is OK if you need to leave room for dirt and grime in a military or field application. However, that amount of play is not ideal for a high-accuracy AR build. A lot of front/back bolt play allows rounds to be hammered into the chamber and actually re-formed in a non-consistent way, as they are loaded into the chamber.
The bolt affects accuracy in an AR-15 more than the carrier group. To get the most accuracy, the bolt and barrel have to be machined so that the headspacing is optimal when the round is chambered and the bolt locked. That is why if one orders a match-grade barrel for an AR-15 either the barrel comes with a bolt, the barrel manufacturer requires you to send in your bolt (prior to machining the barrel you’ve ordered), or the manufacturer requires you to send dimensions from your bolt.
The best accuracy usually comes from the bearing surface of the bullet nearly touching the rifling. Having the bullet jump any significant distance to the rifling tends to negatively affect accuracy. This is true in any rifle, not just the AR-15.
In addition to the above, you will want to keep the chamber, barrel extension, and carrier assembly clean to help insure consistent bolt lock ups critical to accuracy. You will also want to occasionally apply lube directly to bolt rings during shooting sessions.
Carrier key staking is also mentioned in the article. Young Manufacturing does not stake their carrier keys. “There has been a lot of talk about the pros and cons of staking the gas key on the carrier. Here is our opinion and why Young Manufacturing will not stake keys. We have been making carriers since 1991. The US Mil Spec. assembly drawing requires the carrier key to be staked. Contrary to some popular opinions staking does not SEAL the gas key. Staking keeps the screws from backing out Period. If you do not properly torque the screws to 56 inch pounds you will be staking a screw that is loose or one that is over torqued and prone to breakage.” Not sure how I fell about that, for me, a staked key is the only way to go. Something just does not feel right about it not being staked.
Derived from the word “Tactical”.
1.) Descriptive word for equipment or clothing that does not have any tactical purpose; but looks cool.
2.) A person who is a city dweller; but wishes to look like a warrior or as if they are/were in the armed forces.
3.) Appearance that mimics military or martial arts.”
4.) Descriptive word for equipment or clothing that does have a tactical purpose; but has more than needed or required installed on the firearm.
I added in number 4. Most of us have seen that guy, they have every known attachment both tactical and non-tactical, weighing in at over 50 pounds. They hump it around for a bit and then realize how heavy and impractical it is and start removing stuff they don’t need for that mission.
Now that we have the bolt on accessories figured out, let’s talk about coating them and / or your weapon. There are two processes we will discuss application about; hydrographics and DuraCoat. These are very basic steps.
First to apply hydrographics a.k.a Water transfer printing:
- The part must be free of all dirt, oils, wax, grease, loose paint or other contaminants that could affect the finished product.
- Mask off areas not to be printed on etc. Use the universal primer to prime the part.
- Spray the part with the appropriate base coat.
- Item is submerged into dipping container with the film floating on top of the water.
- Rinse the part to remove any residue from the dipping procedure.
- Finish the item with the spray clear coat.
And now for Duracoat:
- Cover the surface where you will be working with newspaper.
- Dis-assemble the entire firearm and clean all pieces thoroughly, making sure there is no trace of oil on any piece you want to coat.
- Use denatured alcohol or TruStrip for a final wipe down of the parts you want to Duracoat to remove all oils.
- Use painter’s tape to mask off any parts that will not be painted.
- Make jigs or snip pieces of the wire to make hooks to hang the parts to spray and dry.
- Have some lacquer thinner ready for any potential mistakes and to clean up.
- Set up the air sprayer and set the compressor to 30 psi.
- Mix the Duracoat paints to get the color you desire. Test spray on a scrap piece of metal to check color.
- Combine 1 part Duracoat Hardener to 14 parts Duracoat paint. Shake thoroughly for at least 3 minutes, and pour into the paint receptacle on the air-sprayer.
- Hold spray tip 4 to 8 inches from the parts and spray Duracoat with sweeping passes from left to right. You can make multiple passes to get to the ideal final thickness of 1 mil, applied in 1 to 3 passes.
- Set parts aside to dry and cure. They will be dry enough for light use in 24 hours, but ideally they should be allowed to dry for 2-4 weeks.
As with everything AR related, there are a crazy amount of accessories and at least twice as many opinions. Everything from Backup metal sights to chainsaw attachments. It always breaks down to what you need, what you want, and how much money you have. It is hard to know what you need if you don’t know it exists. Learn, go on line, join a shooting club, take a class, show the next generation.
There are three major rail types Picatinny, KeyMod and MLOK.
Picatinny are MIL spec MIL-STD-1913 and on are on many military firearms, so I dont think they will be going any place for a very long time. There are also a very large number of accessories using this standard that also will not change any time soon. There are a couple downsides to the Picatinny rail; first is they can get heavy add unnecessary weight to your rifle and bulk it up in a bad way, especially when placed on the fore end of your rifle. They also have sharp edges that can get snagged on or damage other gear as well as un-gloved hands.
The KeyMod system gets its name from the shape of the slots, which look like old-fashioned keyholes. You put the lug through the big circular opening and then slide the attachment forward, tightening the Allan wrench in the narrow part of the slot until your attachment is securely fastened. It also has an auto aligning feature when you tighten things down. The design is completely open source, so anyone who’s interested in manufacturing products using the KeyMod system can do so without having to pay royalties. On the down side KeyMod did not do too good in the USSOCOM testing referenced below. Specifically the stress testing, this might sway me and others to look closer at our next rail, M-LOK. Especially if you are not heavily invested in one or the other.
The M-LOK system by Magpul uses slots in place of the keyholes. The attachment lugs on M-Lok accessories are t-shaped and bi-directional so they can be placed at the front or rear of the slots. While M-LOK is free licensed, it is not open source, and thus manufacturers must acquire a license from Magpul before making products using the M-LOK standard. Magpul claims this gives them more control in assuring that all M-LOK products are made to specifications ensuring compatibility. Program participation is open to any interested manufacturer. This might not matter with Magpul’s dominance in the accessories market.
I dont think Picatinny will go anyplace soon, especially for mounting scopes. It has already adapted to smaller sections that can be mounted on either KeyMod or M-LOK. M-LOK vs. KeyMod is where the real fight will be, and with the Magpul monster leading the charge for M-LOK we soon might see the end of KeyMod.
There are three options for acquiring and AR-15, it will be up to you to decide which method best suites you. Buy, build, and join the 80% club. In a nutshell buying from a reputable manufacture is the easiest, there are great manufactures that make great weapons. Building will let you get more involved in your rifle, and 80%er will give you the highest level of building most of us can get. If you are only going to own one AR style weapon, buying might be your best option. If you are hands on and will be owning more than one you will want to look at building.
Here are a few larger manufactures if you are looking to buy, this is in no way a complete list.
Colt: From their web site, “Colt’s rifles are the only rifles available to sportsmen, hunters and other shooters that are manufactured in the Colt factory and based on the same military standards and specifications as the United States issue Colt M16 rifle and M4 carbine. Colt customers want the best, and none of Colt’s competitors can match the quality, reliability, accuracy and performance built into every Colt rifle.” To me that statement means if you want what has been battle proven choose Colt. Just remember, battle proven might not be what you are looking for.
DPMS: Provides a very wide range of calibers for the AR’s to include .22, .223, 5.56 NATO, 308, 7.62, 204 Ruger, 243 WIN, 260 REM, 300 AAC Blackout, 338 Federal, 6.5 Creedmore, and 6.8 SPC II. That is a very wide range for one manufacture.
Bushmaster, SIG, Rock River Arms, Bravo Company Manufacturing, and the relatively new to the AR world Springfield Armory are all great choices for manufactured AR’s.
Here are a few pros and cons of both buying and building, we will start with buying:
- Easy: Buying a manufactures rifle that meets your needs is the easiest, quickest way to get into modern sporting rifles. You will be able to find a rifle you want and get it on the range without having to take the time to piece their firearm together.
- Less Worry: Buying an AR rather than building gives you peace of mind that as long as you follow instructions when using your new firearm, it’s going to work as advertised.
- Fit and Finish: When building, you have the option of picking components from different manufacturers. However, that assumed flexibility may not always come through, as some components have varying tolerances and dimensions, and may not fit or work properly with all parts. While AR systems generally share interchangeable pieces, you may wind up with parts that just don’t work together. Buying a complete rifle ensures the components fit together properly and work as advertised, taking out the guesswork and potential of making costly mistakes for prospective buyers.
- Plain: Buying off the shelf will give you a functioning, ready-to-shoot rifle, but depending on what you choose, you may feel underwhelmed at the features it offers. You can always upgrade parts as you go to give you the custom gun you want, but that costs more money and time, and could potentially wind up being more expensive than if you had built from scratch in the first place. Some manufactures may have proprietary parts that might not be upgradeable.
- Cost: Manufacturers offer endless options in the AR market offering what seems to be an overwhelming amount of options. Building allows users to construct similarly capable weapons where they have complete control over which components and brands they opt for, allowing them to also choose where and what to spend extra on to get the desired result in a time frame that works for you and your wallet.
And now building:
- Make it yours: Building your rifle gives you the features you’re looking for, and you’ll likely be stuck with fewer unnecessary extra parts when you’re done.
- Experience: One of the best ways to familiarize yourself with your AR is to disassemble and reassemble, learning the intricacies and minutiae of the system. Building an AR gives owners an education in how the rifles are constructed and how they operate, which can come in handy when it comes time to replace parts or help a fellow AR owner in need with quick fixes.
- Ease of Supplies: The parts, from the barrel to the buffer tube, fire control group to the upper receiver itself, can be shipped directly to you. The only part that requires a FFL is the lower receiver.
- Wallet Creep: It can happen if you’re not clear on what you want, keep opting for add-ons, premium components, or changing your mind mid-build.
- Tools: As assembling ARs requires some specialized tools to properly get your rifle together, something you’ll need to factor in when pricing your setup. Depending on what you have already you might still need an armorer’s wrench, a set of roll pin punches, a level, a vise and receiver vise blocks, a torque wrench, screwdrivers and more.
For the most adventurous builder there is the 80% lower. An 80% receiver comes partially completed with the trigger/hammer (fire control) recess unmilled, and the selector, trigger pin, and hammer pin holes often need to be drilled out. An 80% lower receiver can be purchased online, shipped, and received by the purchaser without a firearms dealer or FFL. In addition to the above tools you will need access to a drill, preferably a drill press, a router, and a good jig. Once you are done milling it out, it is just like a regular build.
Vendor Web Sites
Slop in fitting the barrel extension to the upper receiver can rob your rifle of its potential accuracy. AR-15 barrels don’t screw directly into the receiver. They screw into a barrel extension that slips into the receiver. Since it is a slip fit there is a lot of play. Anyone who has ever re-barreled or watched videos of folks assembling an AR-15 upper will note that up until screwing the barrel nut in place the barrel will wiggle around. Trying to correct the issue by over torqueing can damage the receiver and affect the barrel harmonics. You should apply the recommended torque and try the corrective actions we will discuss below.
This can be fixed a couple ways. You can use green Loctite, the #620 is designed to withstand high temperatures like one would expect near the chamber. The 620 was designed for slip fits where gaps are large. It is thicker than the red Loctite and seems to fill gaps between the barrel extension and the corresponding inside surface of the receiver quite well.
You can purchase some shim stock, start with very thin 0.001″ stainless shim stock. Then with shop scissors cut a shim about ¾” wide and 2 ¼” long. The barrel extension has about one inch of bearing length, not including the flange and cutting the shim stock a little on the narrow side gives you leeway to keep it centered and not extending out from either the front or back. Wrap the shim around the extension and attempt a trial fitting, first without Loctite, to see if the barrel will go into the receiver with the shim stock in place. If I still have a lot of slop I cut another replacement piece of stock a little longer. If the fit is too tight to go in place you can gradually trim the length until everything goes tightly in place. Then as above apply green Loctite #620 after making sure everything is clean and degreased.
The downside to both these methods is removal, Loctite is a semi-permanent method. You can try to remove the barrel with heat, a block of wood and a hammer but risk severely damaging your receiver, barrel or both.
The article that this paper is based on is from American Gunsmith Magazine, dated March 2013. Almost exactly 5 years ago and there is much controversy on this subject. As with all things AR, it breaks down to personal preference. Do you want a rifle to go out and plink with, or be super accurate at over 500 yards? If the later, you might want to consider shimming it up, if not, standard build methods will be just fine for you.
Various firearms forums
Now a days there are many different types of iron sights for your AR 15 rifle but for this paper we will focus on two, the A1 and A2 sights. The A1 type’s rear sight only supports windage (right-left) adjustments, and the A2’s rear sight has both windage and elevation adjustments. Because it is less complex, the A1 sight system is more rugged and less likely to be knocked out of zero but in theory has less granularity in adjustments.
To set mechanical zero run the rear sight in one direction, left or right, until it stops. Count the number of clicks in one direction, then again going the other direction until it stops. Divide by two. Then count that number of clicks in toward center. Record this. For the A2 turn the elevation knob to the 8/3 position and then 1 more click clockwise. Adjust the front sight until it is level with the sight post. You are now at mechanical zero.
Fire groups of three shots at the zero target from a distance of 25 yards. Find the center of your groupings and measure from there to the central vertical and horizontal lines in order to determine how far you need to adjust the sights. Lines on zero targets are in 1” increments from the center of the bullseye. To move your groupings to the left, turn the windage knob on the rear sight to the left and to the right to move your grouping to the right on the target. Looking from the top of the sight, the front sight post will need to be turned clockwise to raise groupings and counter-clockwise to lower them as they appear on the target. Repeat until you can consistently hit center mass.
Now that your Iron sights are at setup, let’s briefly discuss how to choose a scopes. First you need to decide what you want the scope for, Home defense, plinking, competition, or long range? With those questions in mind, consider the below:
1. A more expensive scope is usually made better.
2. A larger objective lens, the glass facing your target, can gather more light.
3. A larger scope allows more light transmission and usually enables more adjustments.
4. There’s really no reason to buy a scope that can outrange the ammo you’re shooting.
5. Lower magnification means wider field of view, which means it’s easier to acquire your target and keep on top of the situation around it.
Red dots can enhance you scope or be used alone. When used alone they allow you to remain focused on the target with both eyes opened. These sights allow you to point and shoot by placing the “dot” on the target and pulling the trigger. Red dot sights offer maximum available light transmission and wide fields of view. They are considered the fastest sights for target acquisition and also offer unlimited eye relief.
Let’s talk about the most common mount for your red dot and / or scope, Picatinny rails. The Picatinny rails are military standard MIL-STD-1913 (AR), which was adopted on February 3, 1995. They are the most common rails on modern AR-15 rifles. The recoil grooves are consistently spaced allowing manufactures to provide consistent and secure mounting hardware.
Correct barrel installation is very important. An incorrectly installed barrel can cause serious injury or death. We are going to discuss the correct way to get your barrel installed. First thing we need to do is gather up some tools and supplies:
Armorers wrench, torque wrench, punch, gas tube alignment rod, receiver clamp and / or padded vise, and grease. A grease like AeroShell 33MS or MCARBO designed for aircraft and graphite free is what you will need. Without the proper grease, your upper and barrel could eventually suffer from galvanic corrosion, galling, crack and come loose.
1. Grease the barrel extension prior to installing into the receiver.
2. Align the index pin with the recess in the upper receiver.
3. Push the barrel and upper together so the index pin fits in the slot. It is OK to use a rubber mallet to install the barrel to the upper if things are too tight.
4. Apply grease to the threads of the upper receiver and hand tighten the barrel nut assembly on to the upper.
5. With your torque wrench and armorers tool tighten and loosen the nut 3 times to seat the threads. Use the torque wrench to tighten only! Use your armors wrench to loosen. The goal is to align the space between the teeth at 12 o’clock.
6. Torque from a minimum of 30 ft lbs to a maximum of 80 ft lbs. Your goal is to align a gap between the teeth to 12 o clock of the upper to permit the gas tube to slide through. Once torqued, the gap in the delta ring, weld spring, and C clamp will need to be positioned to 12 o’clock as well.
a.) If it won’t line up, the easiest, and safest method is to order a barrel nut shim. If you are going to be doing several of these, might be worth having a few on hand. These are thin shims that will be installed in the barrel nut to help align the next gap / tooth. Follow the instructions included with the kit and it should fix any alignment issues.
7. Slide the gas tube into the upper receiver.
8. Push the front of the gas tube into the front sight / gas block base. There will be two holes on the end that goes to the sight post / gas block, one hole for the gas, another for the roll pin. Align the holes and use a punch to install the roll pin.
9. Drop on your hand guards and you are done.